Sunday, December 28, 2008

Sunday in Florence

Today was amazing. Waking up whenever you want, or when ever father time allows you to rise is great. So many times we are all set to alarms and schedules, and here in Florence it seems like time literally stands still. Like right now it's 3 am and I am stilled plagued by jet lag, I wake up every night, despite what time I go to bed, for my "reverse nap."  It's like, "hey, time to wake up for a couple hours, then go back to sleep - strange but true. 
When we went out today, we kept with the Italian tradition of a very light breakfast of cappuccino and a light pastry. We like to try a new spot every morning since there are endless choices. My Italian is limited to "duay per favore" (two please) and "Grazie," and it seems to work just fine. I've been trying to memorize my request only to find I don't understand the reply :o)

Our mission today was to explore Ponte Vecchio and Santa Croce (craw-chay)Church. We found both and were impressed like all the other hundreds of tourists lining the streets. This is supposed to be a slow time in Florence, I can't imagine what it's like in the busy time - no way!
The Uffitzi museum was also on my list, but I neglected to buy tickets ahead of time, and with a line around the corner and temperatures in the low 30's, I decided that this time in Florence I will skip the museum. I know I know, there is so much amazing works of art there, the big 2  especially- The David & The Birth of Venus.  I opted for an inside look at Santa Croce church. I saw the most amazing tombs and art, it's impossible to describe in words. The things that were the most amazing to me were the works of art that faded in time, the ones on the walls that lined the individual coves of the church. I felt a great calm walking around this monstrous dwelling, knowing that millions of people had help built it, keep it's art safe and maintaining the over all aesthetic.  When we left, looking for the bathroom - we took a wrong turn and ended up in an underground tomb. It was amazing, but the energy was so crazy - I didn't stay long. 
We headed over to the Piazza Vecchio and there was a market going on. Leather goods, and stuff tourists buy into. Although I saw hundred things that would look great on my arm and in my closet, I  opted not to buy anything.  
The Wild boar fountain
We found the "Porcellino" - a large bronze boar, it's snout polished where everyone rubs it. According to tradition, you can ensure your return to Florence by rubbing the shiny polished snout of Il Porcellino.  The wild boar fountain is located next to the Mercato Nuovo. I mostly wanted to see it because it was in the movie "Hannibal" and it is where Anthony Hopkins character washes his hands after a brilliant kill of a villain.
It seemed like it was getting colder by the minute, & neither one of us could feel our feet, so we found a cute little bar on the corner called, "Colle Bereto."  Colle Bereto is apparently a cafe/bar during the day and then at night turns in to an exclusive club where celebrities hang out.  It had posted little hand bills all over, claiming to have the best New Year's ever party in town.  Their VIP room is called, Elvira Prive'  - so it must be amazing!  It has lots of black banquettes and so much bling it was hilarious.  We opted for a hot drink to warm our bones - I had Ciocolatta and Baileys. It was a decadent hot chocolate spiked with Bailey's liquor and it was divine.  
Once the snow flakes started making their entrance, we headed back to the apartment on Via De Serragli.  A good friend recommended a restaurant, Borgo Antico. It was on the Piazza Santo Spirito, just around the corner from my apartment.   We walked in with no reservation and found the staff to be warm, welcoming and EXTREMELY good looking!
I decided on a Barbera from Piedmonte to start. They were kind to pour us tiny flutes of Prosecco for our apertif.  We opted for choices that wouldn't normally make it to our plate. 
Chickpeas with Herring, Braised Wild Boar with baked Polenta, pine nuts and sweet onions and the house special Pesto Gnocci. This Gnocci was the best I've ever had!
The dessert was similar to a tart tatin - but slightly different. Layered apples on top of a mousse like substance that was chocolate, bitter orange and nutty. The crust was perfect and definitely made with love. We were given a free glass of dessert wine AND a shot of Limoncello.   I guess offering the server a glass of our wine was a good thing! He actually sat at our table and chatted us both up in between course. So nice!
At the end, we paid our bill ($50bucks!) and took a photo of the whole staff, chef included. 
Tomorrow is the big day - the reason I am even in Florence - the wedding. 
I will meet my bride early to get her ready for her 2pm ceremony at Cheisa de Michel e Gaetano at Piazza Antinori. 
It should be an amazing experience. 

Saturday, December 27, 2008

We plan to explore Florence by foot today. Last night I ate my first authentic Italian meal at a place called Dante's.  We were greeted by a lovely man who offered us any table in the place. It seems as though he did double duty because upon our arrival, he was wearing a white apron and then he was our server 5 minutes later. We started with a house wine also named, Dante's, which was a Chianti Classico. We paired that with a Caprese salad with the best Buffula Mozzarella that I've ever had. We shared a Polenta Fungi with locally grown Puccinni mushrooms and a Penne pasta with crispy pancetta, tomato sauce and red pepper flakes. The jet lag was catching up with me and I couldn't hold my eyes open for dessert.  
We almost didn't to eat anything because 12/26 is a huge holiday in Italy, St. Stefano's day - which almost everything is closed. Only a few coffee shops and restaurants are open. 
Our apartment is awesome. It is a split loft style in a super old building next to the Arno River. There is a wrought iron staircase that leads to the loft bed upstairs, and let me tell you, this staircase is super duper tiny!
Our house host whom we rented from, Vivianna is gracious and gave us insider tips of where she likes to eat and explore. She told us how to avoid getting charged tourist prices and what to expect where. Tomorrow we may go to Sienna if we can figure out which bus to take. 
Ciao!

Friday, December 19, 2008

Getting ready for Italy

This is my first official blog posting. I am getting ready to fly 14 hours to Florence, so I can style my client Emy's wedding on 12/29. Chiesa de Santi Michele e Gaetano is the location of the ceremony and by the photos on wikipedia, I am expecting to be overwhelmed by the beauty & art of such a church. I plan to focus on what it's like to style an International wedding, what tips I can share with any future brides thinking of having their ceremony in another country and most of all how important it is to hire the right stylist, (a'hem, me!!) to carry you along. 
Check back soon, check back often - don't miss the story.